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Research into Paint. (care of Thurston James)... Expand / Collapse
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Posted Tuesday, May 30, 2006 6:55 PM
Knight

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After finaly having time to do some proper internet searching rubber cement is a solvent based flexible glue with similar elastic values as latex.
In the UK is hard to get hold of the majority of the US products but various bondage fetish sites seem to recommend Bostik 3851. Unfortunately this is also not the easiest to get hold of. I have only been able to find it available in 5L tins and this took a lot of searching.

As I am unsure on whether this is the correct substance I am unwilling to buy so much of it, I wondered whether anyone may know of somewhere to get a smaller volume or perhaps has a large tin that they may be willing to sell me a sample from.

Post #1115
Posted Wednesday, May 31, 2006 8:20 AM


Devil's Advocate

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I can ask my mad chemist friend for you if you like. His company may sell it (or similar) and if they do, I might be able to get a sample.

He did some samples of latex pigments (ie already coloured latex - no need to mix with paint, easier to apply, more opaque) and that works quite well. I will see what he says.



If you can't beat your computer at chess, try kickboxing.

Post #1173
Posted Wednesday, May 31, 2006 7:41 PM


Wag

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I've been using the Acrylic/latex mix for years it works fine for painting onto flexible surfaces-Masks, weapons, fat suits etc.

I used to use Tamiya, but found out that Games Workshop is cheaper, goes further and has a more useful colour range, so I switched about 10 years ago. Anita's is pretty good but gets a bit cloggy

Could the rubber cement be the stuff they put in puncture repair kits-it's kind of like tame evo stik?

Post #1256
Posted Thursday, June 01, 2006 9:25 AM


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Are you saying you using the high paint:latex mix to paint your weapons? Or just for detailing on them?

As If high paint:latex mix works on weapons, why does everyone normally say to do it the otehr way round, ie more latex to paint??



If you can't beat your computer at chess, try kickboxing.

Post #1307
Posted Thursday, June 01, 2006 12:00 PM


Wag

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I use a black latex to build up depth, gradually overlaying an appropriate coloured (often brown) latex, then use the reverse mix (acrylic with latex for flex)to produce a final colour. I find that a brown "undercoat" makes metals look much more real-kind of ferrous.Blue can be good for a High fantasy-Shiny finish. GW do a wonderful colour called tin bits which gives a metallic rust colour, which also adds to realism.
To finish I use Windsor and Newton Inks to lowlight detail work- then Iso flex the finished item
Post #1327
Posted Thursday, June 01, 2006 1:05 PM


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Hmmm. i might give that method a try then. I'm assumign it produces a better metallic look? so... Any suggestion as to the ratio?

and i thought tinbitz was notorious for destroying latex?



If you can't beat your computer at chess, try kickboxing.

Post #1338
Posted Thursday, June 01, 2006 1:24 PM
Knight

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Inks will produce a good range of results for highlighting textures:
Red/Brown for gold bases
Blue/Black/Brown for silver bases
Would be my rule of thumb depending on what results you are looking for.

I have not had any problems with 'tin-bitz' based latex mixes but with bought paints you never know when the ingredients are changed, I would say that you would be okay at the moment.

NB - if memory serves the initial mix is a vivid (and worrying) purple which produces a deep bronze when it dries.

Oh yes, Tart if this chap you know does have any samples available of this glue then I would be interested.
Post #1342
Posted Friday, June 02, 2006 3:37 PM


Wag

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Hi Tart- usual thing really, have a play and see how you get on, about as much as you can comfortably get into a fresh pot of paint is what I work to. Never had trouble with tin bitz...
Post #1479
Posted Monday, June 05, 2006 12:59 AM
Squire

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just found this on http://www.studiocreations.com/howto/evilash/main.html

Best bet is to use Rubber Cement, the kind you get for arts and crafts, mix it with a solvent called Naphtha and add a couple of drops of acrylic enamel paint (the spraycan kind or even modeler's paint), just enough to give it color. Use a 50/50 mix of Rubber Cement and Naphtha. Rubber Cement on it's own is very stick, but takes for ever to dry. Cutting it with a solvent will allow for a fast dry time while remaining sticky. Using just a few drops of pigment should not make the coloring of latex mask rigid either. It's a win-win situation.


PD: Priest
FnH: Matilda Rothbaine
LT: Monster Mash
Post #1608