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Knight
 
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I feel that it should be pointed out here that theshoveller is not using standard pipe lagging, he is using really thick rubberised stuff.
Don't hug me I'm British, we only show affection to dogs and horses.
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Champion
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evostick impact adhesive. Not the solvent free stuff and not the spray on stuff. It comes in tubes or tins and has a red label. Wilkos stock it.
My advice would be that if you're buying 15mm plastazote anyway, stick 2 sheets of it together to make your shield, though I imagine you're sick of being told alternative methods by now.
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PD - Machupa Kivull - Sandy coloured great-coated Gnoll
Shards/Ascendancy - Crew
FOIP is short for 'torture me for more info'
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Champion
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Shven (4/22/2008)
evostick impact adhesive. Not the solvent free stuff and not the spray on stuff. It comes in tubes or tins and has a red label. Wilkos stock it.Ahh... that puts things in perspective. The shield face foam is stuck on with generic (non-evostick) impact adhesive. I ran out, however (did three shields with it, the last being 32" diameter). I thought there was something special about evostick.
My advice would be that if you're buying 15mm plastazote anyway, stick 2 sheets of it together to make your shield, though I imagine you're sick of being told alternative methods by now. I'm not particularly. But my issue with doing that is two-fold. Firstly, I'm worried that a shield this size (as I said, 32") might snap if put under stress. Secondly, I'm not feeling hugely confident with the idea of creating a foam and latex shield from scratch - particularly the painting of it.
-- -- -- Eos: Manius Shard. Upset. FnH: Officious Guard no.1
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Champion
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theshoveller (4/22/2008) issue with doing that is two-fold. Firstly, I'm worried that a shield this size (as I said, 32") might snap if put under stress. Nar i got a 3' by just over 2' sheild and i use it to sit on in down time they are really robust and will bend before they would snap. As for your idea of 2 sheets of 15mm glued with a trench cut, id be tempted to just fold it over the edge and glue do likewise with the 2nd sheet the 2nd layer will add to the strength of it staying on. You'd obviously need ot do some cutting and adjusting for the shape but the 2nd layer could be extended past that of the first to give you a slop rather than a ridge where the foam ends.
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Eos: Sornasian: Gregory Patell; Burning Salamander; Fingers  Club Secretary Heroes and Heroines
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Wag
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| Latex the back, Glue a canvas cover onto the front- they're as tough as old boots and you can paint what you like on the canvas (and change it if you need to). I've got a heater that's seen 4 different heraldry schemes and is 14 years old.
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Heroic Knight
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www.algeos.com is where I get my Plastazote, the white is cheapest (but an extra coat of black latex sorts that out)
Isoflex, you want the Special Primer, not the Isoflex proper as thats black
Evo-Stik, any impact adhesive will do, read the label, if it will glue fabric and cork it will do foam (platazote)
Try to avoid gaffer on the surface (other people have said why)
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Buy from me and stop one
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The term you're looking for is Seige Engineer !!!
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All problems can be solved with engineering......and large amounts of kinetic energy
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Champion
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I'd have thought the foam would be a little more durable than the ply-wood just cos its flexible. Bends rather than breaks.
And other brands of impact adhesive should be ok
------
PD - Machupa Kivull - Sandy coloured great-coated Gnoll
Shards/Ascendancy - Crew
FOIP is short for 'torture me for more info'
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Prodigal
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.....and let me have a look at it at EOs, i'll sit with you, i'll try to remember to bring some plastazote with me and show you what they are all talking about. I might even help 
- PD: Dubious (so i'm told) and all round Arms Dealer of Mill-en
- RL: Ian, maker of fine-ish LARP weapons
- www.makai-larp.co.uk
- Now providing replica firearms - delivered to every Maelstrom Event!
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Champion
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I love this place sometimes.
-- -- -- Eos: Manius Shard. Upset. FnH: Officious Guard no.1
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