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Apprentice
 
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Last Login: Tuesday, April 22, 2008 5:08 PM
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Ok, I have some old weapons that I got second hand, I've had them checked out by the weapons tester at my local group, and they say that the core and foam are fine, but they need re-latexing and repainting before I can use them, some of the latex is cracked and some is peeled off.
So... I start peeling the latex off... However it is proving to be quite a mammoth task. The latex is quite thin, and in places is cracked and brittle and seems to resemble cracked dry earth in the desert if you get my drift.
Can anyone recommend a method of making this job easier, either by dissolving the latex (but not the foam) or making it easier to peel off.
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Wag
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See, now I'm all disappointed with this thread.
PD - Brother Farael of the Ordo Dictum Dominus
EOS - Some Raggard Scum, previously Some Arimin Scum
6P - System creator (now retired), Andrei Treune of Clan Suner (for the moment)
RL - Will Robinson
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Knight
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| If the foam and core and good i don't understand why you cant use them, the rest is cosmetic, however email Sean at sean@skianmhor.co.uk he will be the best to advice you
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Apprentice
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Last Login: Tuesday, April 22, 2008 5:08 PM
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I know the rest is cosmetic, but I feel like I'm insulting the refs and other players hard work making good phys reps if I come along with a badly painted equipment with peeling/cracking latex.
I will Email Sean for help, thank you. Kapalo Kovaks came to the uni last weekend, and he helped me a lot telling me how to re-latex. The only thing that he didn't mention with how to peel the damned things... his are probably easy as he applies many many coats of latex, but this is a nightmare!
Additionally, I can't remember, is it acrylic paint that I should mix with the latex? if so, in what ratio?
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Knight
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| Yeah i can see why you wouldn't use it, again put that question in the email to Sean, although i'd imagine any of the weapon makers on here will be happy to advise, i think it would prob depend on what final finish you want.
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Prodigal
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| Did someone ask for assistance? Of course i'd be happy to help. Re-latexing is a nightmare. It takes forever to peel off the latex from something that is "past its' shelf life." There is no easy way of doing this other than getting your hands tired peeling back slowly. If you can catch the weapons before it starts to break up like that, (as mentioned the "cracked desert look") it's a lot easier as the latex stays intact. If you are lucky it's almost like (please excuse me) peeling back a condom. You slit the latex at the tip, get your fingers under it as you peel and then slowly, keeping your fingers close to the item as possible, peel some more. If the latex tears you start again. Remove everything I find is the best way, or if the sword only needs the tip relatexing, remove the whole length of the blade to the hilt and trim with scissors a clean edge around the hilt. If it has gone brittle you will end up with very tired hands and picking at it with nails takes a long time, but just has to be done. What generally happens however is that the foam, which the latex is stuck to, comes away or becomes roughened by the process of latex removal. The more brittle the latex generally speaking the more damage you are going to do to the foam surface. This means that, no matter what you do relatexing, the finished item will always look "worn or rusty." So I suggest you aim for that when repainting it and only expect that as a best effort when you start a project like relatexing an old weapon. You may also find that, even though it feels ok underneath, that when you start peeling the latex back the whole thing comes apart in your hands. If that starts heppening, stop. You have two choices. Either give it to someone that has made weapons before and knows what they are doing to recover it. Or bin it. My advice generally would be Option 2. What you are best doing there is giving that sword, that you love so much and want forever because it's so great *sniff* to a custom weapon maker and saying "make me another one of these please." I've done a few of those so far and it's a lot easier when you have a pattern to work from. A lot easier if you got it from a manufacturer who is still operating and still makes that kind of weapon of course  I hope that helps, not perhaps the best of news but thems' the breaks.
- PD: Dubious (so i'm told) and all round Arms Dealer of Mill-en
- RL: Ian, maker of fine-ish LARP weapons
- www.makai-larp.co.uk
- Now providing replica firearms - delivered to every Maelstrom Event!
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Squire
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| Same as all that really. Alternatively, provided the latex is really dry and you're really careful, you could use fine sandpaper to remove it. About the only other thing we can think of here. And likewise, we've done quite a few "can you make me another one of these please (sniff)" orders. Lynne
Eldritch
www.eldritch.com
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Apprentice
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Last Login: Tuesday, April 22, 2008 5:08 PM
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Thanks for the info, I might try the sandpaper on parts of it.
It's not a beloved weapon, it's just that I got it for next to nowt and I want to make something of it... the "rusted" effect shouldn't be a problem as it's "made of wood"
Any hints on how to paint it and how to mix the paint for wood and how to best do the gold bands around the handle?
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Prodigal
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| If you are starting from scratch, have never painted latex before, have no materials to start with AND a knackered weapon that needs a lot of TLC, my general suggestion Option 2 for sure. Bin It. The cost of paint, brushes, latex, sealant, grip (if you are redoing it) unless you really, really, really want to do this, wouldn't be worth it. You can probably go out and buy yourself a second hand or fest-cheapo at less cost to yourself. For example, Isoflex Sealant comes in litre tins, minimum cost 11 quid. Latex and a couple of paints to colour it, a ten to fifteen. Brushes a couple of quid. Grip, maybe a fiver depending on what you use or where you get it. Hours of work, the possibility it won't be any good and fall apart, you screw up and it all goes wrong or it fails the second time you use it (it never fails the first time!) Then you might as well save your money and give it to a weapon maker for something you will enjoy using and will more likely last a few years of abuse. I only repair weapons for friends or take on ones I can reliably fix, I always say "it's most likley to fail, i'll do my best. Expect Rusty at Best." I do it because I already have the materials and the skills to make it work. Sometimes I even have the time too!
- PD: Dubious (so i'm told) and all round Arms Dealer of Mill-en
- RL: Ian, maker of fine-ish LARP weapons
- www.makai-larp.co.uk
- Now providing replica firearms - delivered to every Maelstrom Event!
-
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