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Cold Water and Brass Tacks
 
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| I have to concur with above, practice and a large surgical scaple with lots of spare blades is the only way to get a good finish. Scaple blades are a bit longer than stanleys.....and cheaper. You should change the blade immeadiately it starts to pull for the best finish.... try and cut the blade in one flowing slice for the straightest line... if you go too slow your more likely to pull the foam and create a kink.... Hot wire cutting I have never seen work well, though that doesnt mean it cant be done.
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Live roleplaying's greatest cheerleader...
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In the past I used to use the long snap off craft knives, but using the whole blade fully extended in one long single pull to cut the blade edge. Plus I seem to remember that 'The Weaponsmith' used to use a damn big kebab/fish filleting knife.
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Apprentice
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... kebab knife.. genious....where do you get them from... i only see them when im pissed...
"if you want it broken ... give it to Bait"
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Live roleplaying's greatest cheerleader...
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I don't know off the top of my head. He already had it in his workshop. I fish filleting knife would do the job as well, or I have heard of the use of sharpened metal rulers. Have a google for catering equipment suppliers. I think there was a high street/ market one here in Nottingham, but I've not been down there yet. Plus keep the blade real sharp by investing in one of those fancy knife sharpeners.
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Devil's Advocate
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I've had reasonably good results with a bread knife. just requires alot of sanding after the fact.
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Initiate
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Last Login: Monday, February 02, 2009 8:41 PM
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| Best I've found for sword edges are brand new sectional snap off blades to full extension in the blade holder - about 4 inches of cutting blade - each ones lasts for 1 sword blade. I can find these for £1.00 for a pack of 10.
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Champion
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| Back when I made blades out of campingmats, I used to `sharpen' them on a belt sander, (the big drum part of it, to be precise) after completely assembling the blade or even entire weapon (I only used rudimentary upper and lower guards, as I was not yet comfortable with crossguards). It takes a bit of practise to get it smooth, but once you`ve mastered that, it gives a very nice look, since it actually leaves `shoulders' on the blade, like a grinding stone would, a feature missing from all commercial grade weapons I`ve seen. You can`t choose not to have shoulders, since the belt sander will tear whole chunks from any corners. Only put the length (and tip) of the weapon to it. (I suppose you could try holding the blade by the foam tip, but that won`t give as firm a grasp.) It works less well with LD, although that might be a case of using finer or coarser grade sand paper.
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Champion
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Shelford (8/16/2007)
...I fish filleting knife would do the job as well,... Plus keep the blade real sharp by investing in one of those fancy knife sharpeners.I`ll second that, since I`ve used one. Nothing like a long blade to make a long cut. (Would you know the difference between a Japanese `tuna knife' and a katana?) And keep the sharpener handy. 
________________________________________________________ - IRL: Edwin Hofstra
- - mostly crewing at the moment
Reality is something you rise above.
- Liza Minnelli
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Apprentice
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| christ you guys werent joking aboput wearing goggles when using a sanding disk with foam my eyes are killing me!! oddly enough i have a good filleting knife kicking araound... i'll give that ago
"if you want it broken ... give it to Bait"
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Heroic Knight
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Goggles and a mask are not optional if you're going to sand foam, even by hand. You do not want to breathe that stuff in. Same goes for melting it.
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