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Apprentice
 
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Last Login: Wednesday, November 19, 2008 2:19 AM
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| I am about to make my very first pair of trunk hose, to match a doublet I made for a friend a while ago (gotta love project creep). I've checked my Janet Arnold, made my calico mock, and am stuck with the fabric - black silk velvet, with bronze silk slashing (not ideal for hose, I'm thinking). Does anyone have any construction tips?
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Heroic Knight
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| I don't, having never made any, However I'm very interested in how you get on H.
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Buy from me and stop one
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The term you're looking for is Seige Engineer !!!
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All problems can be solved with engineering......and large amounts of kinetic energy
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Apprentice
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Last Login: Wednesday, November 19, 2008 2:19 AM
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Well, trunk hose - or Venetian hose - completed. It was an interesting project.
The pattern was... er... derived from? Inspired by? A much simpler version of? one from the Janet Arnold Patterns of Fashion book - my bible for doublets and such. The chap I was making for didn't feel quite up to full on Elizabethan trunk hose, so we settled on the Venetian hose as a less exuberent but still period feel solution (I should emphasise here that this was absolutely inauthentic larp costume and would be held up and publicly laughed at by any re-enactor). We also needed slashing and - the customer was very very clear on this - NO codpiece. The materials were easy to determine, alas, as it was to match a doublet and cloak I had made previously, I was stuck with silk velvet - not my ideal trouser fabric!- a rather elaborate folded dupion and fancy braid and beading to trim.
I mocked up a version in calico, then cut in the dress fabrics. The velvet was as bad as I had feared... it walked all over the place, and the crispness of the dupion did not help as much as I had hoped it might. I had compromised with my slashes - instead of actually interlining, I saved time and money and potential frayage by setting in panels of the contrast fabric which I then pleated in, so that they looked something like slashing. Stitching these panels in place proved to be very tricky, and only a sort of machine tacking - running over them with the straight stitch set to 3.0 - before overlocking saved me.
Once the basic construction was finished, I ran braid (attached in place with seed beads) along the bottom of the leg on each of the hose. The same trim runs around most of the doublet, and the cumulative effect is quite acceptable. Applying maybe 1m of braid took me in the region of four hours - I will never use this technique ever again (until the next time)
The real crisis came when I had to, finally, face the waistband. After some unpleasant experiments, I discovered that I would be using the lining fabric (plain black silk dupion) for the waistband after all. This speeded things up no end. I pleated the trews to the waistband, whipstitched the lining to it and then cheated with hook and eye tape for the front. Thankfully, the lining went in a treat, and the whole project was successfully concluded with two hours to spare before the chap who planned to wear them tomorrow came round to collect.
Notes for future reference:
- putting it off because you are scared to start results in being scared and rushed
- silk velvet makes crap waistbands unless you are better at this than I am
- beading takes forever, and is nearly not worth it
- hook and eye tape may be hideously inauthentic, but it is just SO easy
- crisp, thick black silk dupion is the lining fabric of the gods themselves
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Knight
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| Do you have any photo's to accompany the description?
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Apprentice
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Last Login: Wednesday, November 19, 2008 2:19 AM
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| You will find the offending articles (plus very similar long winded description of the construction) here http://happybat.livejournal.com/25899.html#cutid1
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